пока моя гбц, будет повторно дефектоваться после ремонта. я решил пока собрать блок с поршнями. блок м52 расточен до ремонтного размера 84,5мм. поршни куплены новые 84,48 соответственно. поскольку кольца уже установлены на поршнях с завода, промерить зазор в замке, не снимая колец никак не получится. а учитывая участившееся количество брака от разных производителей, промерить зазор не мешало бы. однако технипедия кольбеншмит настойчиво рекомендует не снимать уже предустановленные кольца с поршней так как они деформируются при снятии. теперь вопрос, как поступить, все таки рискнуть снять кольца и проверить зазор или рискнуть не снимать, не проверять и поставить как есть?
Сгорели мозги на моторе M44B19.
Внутри 3 горелых резистора, какие они там стояли не могу разобраться. Может быть у кого есть понимание что там было или схему где-то можно найти?
Came off my car with 50k miles
Headlights have a protective film on them that were installed by the previous owner.
The driver side headlight is missing the plastic cover for the bulb housing. Bulbs and ballast included.
Free shipping .Asking $450 for everything.
This Saturday is opening day for bow hunting for Pennsylvania residents. My homeowners insurance co sent me a postcard to remind me it’s time to repost my property to avoid trespassing and liability.
The local hardware store was out of the proper signs, but the sales guy informed me of something I didn’t know about. Apparently a lot of states, now PA as well, have a Purple Paint Law. No Trespassing or No Hunting is said to all when you paint a Purple band on trees or posts on your property. Of course there are regulations everyone must abide.
Well actually, I've decided to replace the engine, at least initially. The car in question is a '70 LS5 with about 85K miles on it. Circumstances dictate either building the original engine or put in a reman. In order to have some fun with the car before winter hits I'm going with the reman. However, would paying the core charge ($900) be worth the price just to rebuild the engine later and put the original back in the hole? Would the original engine increase the value of the car enough to make it worth while? I referring to the hassle of the rebuild and swapping the engine twice. Opinions would be welcomed.Thanks,
Stan
Hello everyone
im in the process of purchasing a z06 that comes with Chevy platinum protection plan extending the coverage to 2022. I know the plan is transferable however it seems like this plan is no longer available in California ( even though it is still being sold on Simpson Chevrolet website). . The plan was initially purchased in 2016 in SoCal ( I’m assuming the policy change has occurred after that date)
so the question is has anyone here had experience using this plan in California? I know Mr fitcher no longer sells these plans in CA.
thanks for your help
This piece is missing from my 65 coupe. I might get lucky and find it but for now its probably MIA.
A few questions for you guys in the know.
Is this part year specific?
Looking in the parts section there are references to the bare side color. What is the color for 65?
Sadly, I sold my C4 today. I have owned it for 14 years and have loved every minute of it. But it was time to pass it on to a young man who I think will love it as much as I. But, I need to make room in my garage for my new car. I have reserved the 76th allocation at Mac Haik for a 2021 C8. It will be my very first new car and am looking very forward to taking delivery.
I do plan on monitoring the C4 forum to try to help folks keep the C4's on the road.
Here is the 92 LT1 ZF6 Z07
I have read a few post about how to tune out the issues with the ebcm and not being able to power brake etc. where my ebcm is messed up I cannot turn on or off traction control.
when I try to power brake the car the motor stutters down and it doesn’t have any power. Everything I have tried that I have read and done on hp tuner hasn’t worked (I have upped my time 1/2 sec though).
anyone tune this out or get around this issue. I am probably missing something small.
I have an 04 Coupe have an odd predicament going on. When I bought it a couple of weeks ago had one fob they couldnt get a second fob program to it. they gave me a second fob for me to try programming cuz I'm pretty handy with stuff.
Oddly, I can get either fob programmed as the first fob, and neither fob will program as the second fob. So basically both fobs work but can't get both of them program simultaneously, regardless of which one's in first or second position. I've read through the forms I'm not sure what to do here. I'm hoping somebody has an idea. Thanks in advance David
I'm currently running 18x9.5 wheels on all four corners for a track only c5. I'm trying to decide if going to 10.5 width is worth the trouble/cost. If the tires are at the same pressure, a tire on a 9.5 wheel should have the same contact patch area as a tire on a 10.5 wheel. Only difference is an overall track width that's 1" wider, right? What am I missing?
Hey guys, thought I would document how I solved a high rpm problem in my 1989 six-speed Corvette in hopes that it may help someone.
Please excuse me as I don't have all the right mechanical terminology, but I changed my fuel pump a few months ago (used stock ACDelco parts) and my car was idling great at about 7-8 rpm's at a stand still. The fuel pump install was a success and it actually increased the acceleration of the car. Anyway, fast forward a couple months (a few days ago) and while driving the rpm's would stay at whatever speed I was at even with my foot off the pedal. For example, on the highway in 5th gear I took my foot off the pedal and the car kept driving at the same speed. My cruise control was off. Same thing with lower gears in the city. My rpm's would stay the same even when I took my foot off the gas pedal. It was only when I tapped the gas pedal quick that it would drop down to the normal idle or speed. It would drop to 10-12 rpm's, which was still higher than the 7-8 rpm's after the fuel pump installation. Long story short, first I unplugged the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and sprayed it with electrical cleaner. Plugged that back in and that didn't help. Then I removed the Mass Air Flow Sensor and sprayed it with MAF Cleaner. While that was off and drying, I sprayed the throttlebody (still on the car) with throttle body cleaner. I used a tooth brush and praper towel and cleaned what I could in there. It had a grayish/black film on it. I also LIGHTLY lubed the swivelling parts in the throttle body and all moving parts on the outside associated with the throttle body with Sea Foam Deep Creep. I managed to clean the throttle body fairly well, although not as thorough as I could with it off. I put everything back together and went for a drive. The car drove well. The rpm's went down each time I let off the gas. It also went back to idling at about 7-8 rpm's at a stand still. I was very relieved and THANKFUL that this problem was solved. Hope this helps.
I have an 82 that I recently did a brake service on, new O rings on 4 calibers, new master cylinder, bleeding..brakes were good but not perfect, pedal still goes a long way in, drove for 3 days then took it to another service place and additional front caliber bleeding, pedal got better, drove it for 20 minutes and was perfect, then at a stop light put the car on N, when I drove it the pedal went all the way to the floor and no brakes! Luckily I managed to get her home safely, it was scary I tell you, but the next day the brake was fine ! Drove it carefully to the first place of service to figure out what went wrong and everything was ok, oil was full no leak, been driving it carefully for 2 days and still fine, what do you guys think was the problem? How can I make sure it won’t happen again?
LG Motorsports is proud to announce yet another race quality suspension piece for your C7 Corvette! Our famous billet drop spindles are here and ready to go! Our spindles lower your Corvette one full inch without loosing any shock travel or disturbing the GM suspension design. Just like our C5/6 Billet Drop spindles, these will offer you a stronger spindle for your wheel bearings offering less deflection and better wear of brake components. No other billet spindle has won more pro and regional races on a Corvette than the LG Motorsports billet drops! Formed from a solid extruded section of high strength aluminum alloy, this set of four spindles will allow you to lower the ride height of your Corvette 1 full inch over stock while retaining the full shock travel and correct suspension geometry.
Made of 6061 Billet Material these spindles are the ultimate in tensile strength!
1" lower ride height
Improved handling
lowered center of gravity
Improved strength for caliper mounts and wheel bearing mount
Mono ball upper pivot point for improved steering feel
Improved bump steer geometry
Full shock travel
Bolt on install
A must for lowered track cars!
Billet Uprights
$3,145.95
LG MOTORSPORTS C7 15" CONVERSION DRAG SPINDLES
Use with LG Motorsports C7 Drag A-Arms (SKU2765 A-ARM) and Brake Kit to use 15" drag wheel on your C7 Corvette while retaining your factory Emergency brake. Drag spindles are sold with new ball joints. Made of 6061 Billet Material these spindles are the ultimate in tensile strength!Bolt on install, only minor clearancing required
Drop Spindles No other billet spindle has won more pro and regional races on a Corvette than the LG Motorsports billet drops! Formed from a solid extruded section of high strength aluminum alloy, this set of four spindles will allow you to lower the ride height of your Corvette 1 full inch over stock while retaining the full shock travel and correct suspension geometry.
Made of 6061 Billet Material these spindles are the ultimate in tensile strength!
1" lower ride height
Improved handling
lowered center of gravity
Improved strength for caliper mounts and wheel bearing mount
Mono ball upper pivot point for improved steering feel
Improved bump steer geometry
Full shock travel
Bolt on install
A must for lowered track cars!
Billet Uprights
$2,995.95
15" Drag Spindles LG Motorsports C5 and C6 Corvette billet drag spindle kit for 15" wheels.
These billet spindles are taken directly from our road race drop spindles, but by design allow the use of a 15" wheel for those that need a true drag tire. This is an original LG innovation for the Corvette, they hold the C6 DRAG RECORD, and are the best fitting option on the market. Ask your LG sales rep for more info.
Bolt on install, only minor clearancing required
Retains use of OEM parking brake
Allows use of 15" drag wheels C6Z51 and C6Z06 must purchase optional brake kit for clearance
Made of 6061 Billet Material these spindles are the ultimate in tensile strength!
$210.00 + plus you pay shipping or best offer - For sale a pair of light weight hard plastic Laguna Blue Z06 Emblem door props - Paid over $300.00 and used twice. Local pick-up Atlanta
Hey all - I'm replacing the body mounts in our '77. I found some great information on the forums, but I'm curious about one thing. Since I'm replacing these one side at a time, should I loosen the opposite side mounts prior to jacking the body up on one side? (I've already done all the other prep such as the steering column, shift linkage etc.)
ich bin gerade dabei, mir eine R100R auf mich "zuzuschneiden";
Sie soll bekommen:
- ein S-Cockpit (Wüdo (CR 45??))
- Lenkererhöhungen
( - weniger von Bedeutung: GS-Lenker)
Ohne Lenkererhöhungen montiert ist alles absolut paletti - nix beist sich, nix stört;
Leider ist der Abstand zwischen dem Deckel des Bremsflüssigkeitsbehälters und dem S-Cockpit ca. 1 .. 1,5 cm zu klein, als dass die Lenkererhöhungen problemlos montiert werden könnten;
Auch wenn der Orginallenker montiert wäre, dürfte das Problem das gleiche sein;
Hat jemand einen Lösungsansatz für mich, dass das alles miteinander funzt?
Sicherlich kommt dieses Problem(chen) nicht nur bei mir vor
Just curious, I’m looking to buy this C7Z, but I’m unsure on the price.
2015 3LZ ZO7, 29k miles, stock minus CAI, salvage title due to rear end. The pictures look clean enough, but he’s asking 49,900 for it. I KBB’d it at 55k
hat etwas gedauert, aber jetzt ist der Austauschmotor drin. Alles gut gegangen, keine nennenswerten Kratzer auf dem Rahmen (dank 2 Mann).
Ein Problem habe ich aber jetzt. Die Einbaulage des Distanzhalters (Federn Haupt-und Seitenständer) vorne links geht aus dem Handbuch hervor, aber der auf der rechten Seite (Feder Hauptständer) erschließt sich mir nicht. Kann mir bitte jemand ein Foto schicken aus dem die Position hervorgeht. Ist wie gesagt eine R100RS aus Anfang 80.
For those that may not hang out in the Autocross and Roadrace section of the forum, @APEXRaceParts is launching a new wheel line for Corvettes and there is a group buy going on for the first run of production. Even though they are marketing them to racers, they still look cool and would make great street wheels as well. Just thought I would give everyone here a heads up. I am looking to get a set of 18x11 myself. The more people on the group buy the bigger the discount! Spread the word!
Tomorrow I will be installing the L/H cylinder head on my LT1 Stingray.
Is there any particular procedure to adding the coolant back into the system. [I have been accustomed to Euro cars that have a bleeder in the system]
I can't see anything like this on the Corvette , but don't want Air-lock the system.
Also ,with the GM torque to yield head bolts, they have a coating on the thread.
Are these bolts installed dry, or do I give them a light coat of oil?
die Original Ölablassschrauben an der GS Gabel sind M6 x 6. Die in meiner Gabel sind total vermurkst. 6mm Länge hab ich grad nicht da. Kann man da auch eine längere Schraube nehmen oder kollidiert sie dann mit irgendwelchen Innereien?
We have all seen the news about the 3 recent quality control or faulty parts issues (valve spring, power breaker, and seatbelt), that some news/blogs said that GM is stop delivering the cars until they are fixed or has issued recalls. My HTC was TPW 9/7, and was made that week, so according to the original news, it falls inside the window before the cut off date that ended in late Sept. that the car could have these potential issue. So just out of curiosity, I asked GM's Corvette Concierge today if my car would be pulled from shipping, for GM to do some repairs or parts replacements, as I figured that it would cost GM less to do these repairs while the car is still in the factory instead of doing a recall repair at the local dealers. Well, Corvette Concierge checked their system and replied: "Congrats! Your car has been shipped!" I suppose it's on its way to the rail station in Toledo and then to be put on the train bound for the West Coast to be shipped to the local courtesy delivery dealer in Seattle.
So, I guess that none of these 3 potential issues stops GM from shipping the cars - they are not doing repairs or parts replacement while the cars made in Sept could still be in the BG factory. Instead, they count on customers bring the cars to the local dealer for the recall repairs. But I wonder why don't they take the less cost approach of swapping the faulty parts in the factory while the cars were still in their possession.
Does any of you whose TPWs were also in the early Sept dates checked with your dealer or the Corvette Concierge about the potential recall repairs? Anyone heard anything different?
Just looking around and want a midyear sliver convertible. I don't care if it is all original and really looking for a driver, but this one is really nice. Maybe too nice, but maybe someone on here knows the car? Hope this is the right forum for this question. Thanks.
Hello I’m wondering if anyone here can please tell me if the 2001 Z06 Mid pipe/H Pipe “jingles” like I’ve heard all the non pup cats 2002-2004 models do, I have a 2003 Z06 and I’m trying to go back to stock everything to preserve the factory function, and I’m thinking of running the Z (01-04) manifolds paired with the ‘01 h pipe just to see if there’s no added jingle too. If there is and someone confirms it, I’d really like if you could get like a recording or video of what that noise Even sounds like cause I’m curious, as always thank you and sorry for all the newbie questions, I just got this car a while ago and this is my first ever corvette.
Thinking of maybe doing a cam while I do the headers, x pipe and exhuast. Was leaning towards billy boat prt but curious as to how it sounds with headers and a mild cam. Tried find videos on youtube with little luck. I'd like to hear your guys different set ups on a ls3 so if you could post your set up with specs I'd really appreciate it!
I bought a clock spring off eBay and I had no clue the 06 was different. My 07 has the white connector with black green blue and grey wires. The 06 clock spring I bought has the white blue red and grey wires. Does anyone know which wires I have to swap from the black connector to the white just for the horn to work? Thank you
